Hand block printed clothing, made in Jaipur
Jaipur is Sourcingo's home hub and the centre of India's hand block printing trade. Here is what you can make, what the craft asks of you, and how to plan around it.
Why Jaipur for block print
Sourcingo is headquartered in Jaipur, and hand block printing is what the region is best known for. The towns around the city, Sanganer and Bagru in particular, have printed cloth by hand for generations. Printers, block carvers, dyers, washers and garment units work close to each other, so fabric moves from print table to cutting table without crossing the country.
Jaipur's partner units also specialise in ethnic and fusion wear and cotton womenswear. That matters, because a good block print can be spoiled by a poor garment. You want the printing and the stitching both done by people who know this kind of product.
What we make in block print
Block printing suits light, natural woven fabrics such as cotton cambric, voile, mulmul, poplin, linen and some viscose. Typical products:
- Kurtas and kurtis, straight, A-line, angrakha and panelled styles
- Kurta sets, with pants, palazzos or dupattas
- Dresses, from tiered maxis to shirt dresses
- Co-ords, shirt and pant or top and skirt sets
- Shirts, for men and women, including resort-collar styles
- Resortwear, kaftans, wrap skirts, relaxed trousers and cover-ups
- Kidswear in soft cottons, such as dresses and sets
The craft, in short
A design is carved into wooden blocks, usually one block per colour. A printer presses each block onto fabric stretched on a long padded table, lining up each impression by eye. Multi-colour prints need each colour applied in turn, with the fabric drying between stages. The fabric is then fixed, washed and dried before cutting.
Techniques you will come across include direct printing with pigment or reactive dyes, dabu (a mud resist printed before dyeing, often with indigo), and printing with natural dyes. Each behaves differently in cost, colour range and time. Our buyer's guide to block printing in Jaipur covers the techniques in more depth.
What to expect from a hand-made print
Hand block printing is not a machine process, and you should not judge it like one. Before you order, accept these as part of the product:
- Small irregularities. Slight variation in pressure, faint joins between repeats and minor misalignment are normal. They are why the print looks hand-made.
- Colour variation between batches. Dye mixes are made by hand. Two print runs of the same design can differ slightly, and natural dyes vary more. Approve a strike-off, and keep a reference swatch.
- Placement changes across pieces. On all-over prints, where the motif falls on each panel varies from garment to garment.
- Washing matters. Prints are washed after fixing. Ask about wash instructions for your care labels, especially with natural dyes and dabu.
If your brand needs every piece to match exactly, a screen or digital print may suit you better. If you want the character of hand work, block print is worth the extra care.
How minimums work for block print
Garment minimums start from 25 pieces per style. Block print adds a fabric question on top of that, because printing happens on lengths of cloth, not on finished garments.
What drives the minimum:
- New design or existing block. A new design needs blocks carved for it. Using a design that a printer already has, or adapting one, avoids that step. A design developed for you is made only for your brand.
- Number of colours. Each colour usually needs its own block and its own pass on the table.
- Colourways. Each colourway is printed separately, with its own dye mixes. Several colourways of one design at very small quantities can raise the cost per metre.
- Base fabric. Dyed grounds, such as a print on an indigo or rust base, add a dyeing step with its own lot size.
- Technique. Dabu and natural dye work have more stages than direct printing.
The exact minimum is confirmed once we see your designs and fabric choice. Sometimes the simplest way to keep a small order workable is to print one or two colourways and spread them across several styles.
Timelines for block print
Production is 45 days from sample approval to dispatch. For block print, the time before that needs more planning than for plain fabrics:
- Design and blocks. If new blocks are needed, carving comes first.
- Strike-off. A short printed length shows colour and placement for your approval.
- Sample garment. Every style is sampled. You sign off on fit, fabric and finish.
- Bulk printing, then garmenting. Fabric is printed, fixed, washed and dried before cutting.
Printing depends on drying. Humid or rainy weeks can slow it down, so build in margin if your launch falls after the monsoon months. How fast your approvals come back also shapes the sampling stage.
Quality checks on block printed goods
Our team monitors production on the factory floor and checks finished goods against the approved sample before packing. For block print, that means looking at print clarity, colour against the approved strike-off, smudges and dye bleed, as well as stitching, measurements and finishing. Certifications such as GOTS or OEKO-TEX are held by some partner factories, and factory-wise copies are shared on request before an order.
Questions
Can I use my own block print design?
Yes. Send artwork or a reference, and blocks can be carved for it. Designs developed for you are made only for your brand and never offered to other brands.
Why does my sample look slightly different from the bulk?
Hand mixing of dyes and hand placement of blocks create small differences between runs. Approving a strike-off and keeping a reference swatch keeps the bulk close to what you signed off.
Is natural dye block print available?
Some printers work with natural dyes. They give softer, more variable colours and usually cost more and take longer. Tell us early so we can match you to the right unit.
Can I do block print on dresses and co-ords, not only kurtas?
Yes. Any style cut from a suitable woven fabric can be block printed. Fit and pattern work for western styles go through the same sampling as any other garment.
What do I need to send for a block print costing?
Categories and style count, quantity per style and per colour, target cost or retail price, size range and fit, launch date, and your print artwork or references. With a complete brief, costing comes back within 48 hours.
Updated:
Get a costing in 48 hours.
Send us your brief. Once it is complete, you get a cost per style, the minimum it depends on and a production timeline within 48 hours.