Garment sampling stages, from first proto to shipment sample
Sampling is where your idea becomes a garment you can sell. Knowing what each sample is for helps you approve the right things at the right time, and keeps rounds from piling up.
Why sampling has stages
A sample is a test. Each stage tests something different: the idea, the fit, the grading, the look on camera, the bulk materials, the bulk production itself. Mixing those questions up is the most common reason sampling drags on.
Not every brand needs every stage. A small first order may skip or merge some of them. But knowing the full sequence helps you see what you are being asked to approve, and what you can safely leave for later.
The sample stages, in order
Proto sample. The first physical version of your design, made from the tech pack or sketch. It checks the overall look, proportions and construction. It is often made in available fabric close to your choice, not the final fabric.
What you check: silhouette, design details, construction approach.
What you do not check yet: exact colour, final fabric, perfect fit.
Fit sample. Made in your base size, ideally in the actual fabric or a close substitute with the same weight and stretch. It is tried on a fit model or a body that matches your size chart.
What you check: how it fits and moves, measurements against the spec, ease, balance.
Expect more than one fit round for new blocks, especially for fitted styles, stretch fabrics and tailoring.
Size set. One sample in each size, or in key sizes such as smallest, base and largest. It checks that grading works and that the fit holds across the range.
What you check: measurements in every size, proportions in the smallest and largest sizes, print or embroidery placement as sizes change.
Salesman or photo sample. Samples in the right colour and fabric, made for photography, marketing or selling to wholesale buyers. They must look right on camera, though they may be made before every bulk material is in.
What you check: appearance, colour, styling. These are not usually the reference for bulk quality.
Pre-production (PP) sample. The most important approval. The PP sample is made with the actual bulk fabric, trims, labels and packaging, following the final tech pack. It is the garment bulk will be built and inspected against.
What you check: everything: fabric, colour, trims, construction, measurements, labels, care content and finish. Once you approve it, the spec is frozen.
Top of production (TOP) sample. Pieces pulled from the first garments off the bulk line. They confirm that the factory is producing to the approved PP standard at full speed.
What you check: that bulk matches the PP sample. Catching a problem here costs far less than catching it at final inspection.
Shipment sample. Pieces taken from finished, packed goods before dispatch. Brands use them as a record of what was shipped and for checks on arrival.
Who approves what
Clear sign-off saves time. Decide in advance who in your team approves each stage, and make sure only that person sends final comments.
| Sample | Typically approved by | Main question |
|---|---|---|
| Proto | Founder or designer | Is this the right design? |
| Fit | Designer or product team | Does it fit as intended? |
| Size set | Product or technical team | Does fit hold across sizes? |
| Photo or salesman | Marketing or sales | Does it look right to sell? |
| Pre-production | Founder, designer or product lead | Is this exactly what bulk should be? |
| TOP | Quality or sourcing team | Is bulk matching the PP sample? |
At Sourcingo, every style is sampled, and the brand signs off on fit, fabric and finish before bulk. Sourcingo's own team then monitors production on the factory floor and checks finished goods against the approved sample before packing.
How to give fit comments that work
Vague comments create new rounds. "Feels too tight" or "make it more relaxed" leaves the pattern maker guessing how much to change, and where.
Comments that work are:
- Measured. "Reduce chest by 2 cm" rather than "too loose at chest".
- Located. Say exactly where: "at waist, 3 cm below the side seam notch".
- Linked to the spec. Refer to the point of measure code, for example "POM B, chest".
- Visual. Photos of the sample on the body, with pins or marks showing the change, are clearer than words.
- Ranked. Mark which changes are essential and which are nice to have.
- Complete. Send one consolidated set of comments per round. A comment that arrives two days after the rest often misses the next sample.
Also note what you like. If the neckline is right, say so, so it is not changed by accident when other points are adjusted.
Finally, update the tech pack with every approved change and raise its version number. That way the next sample is made from the latest decisions, not a chat thread.
Why sampling rounds multiply
Most extra rounds come from a few causes:
- An incomplete tech pack. The first sample is a guess, so the second is the real starting point. See our guide to writing a tech pack.
- Substitute fabric. A fit approved in one fabric can change in another, especially with stretch, drape or shrinkage differences.
- Changing the design mid-sampling. New ideas are natural, but each one restarts part of the process.
- Comments from several people. Conflicting feedback leads to a sample that satisfies nobody.
- Approving the wrong things at the wrong stage. Spending a round on colour at proto stage, when the bulk fabric is not dyed yet, wastes time.
- Slow approvals. A sample waiting in your studio is a round that is not moving.
Two to three rounds is common for a new style. Simple repeat styles on an approved block can need fewer. Complex or tailored garments can need more.
How sampling fits into your timeline
Sampling comes before production, and its length is variable. It depends on the style, whether fabric and trims are in stock or need to be made, and how quickly comments and approvals come back.
Sourcingo's turnaround is 45 days from sample approval to dispatch. The clock starts when you approve the sample, so a realistic launch plan works backwards:
- Your launch date
- Minus shipping and receiving time
- Minus 45 days of production to dispatch
- Minus sampling time: proto, fit rounds and pre-production
- Minus time to finalise your brief and tech pack
If your launch date is fixed, the step you control most is how fast you review and approve samples. Plan your team's time for it.
After the first order is confirmed, your team gets a Sourcingo client portal login that shows stage-by-stage status, sample approvals and comments, due dates and delivery dates, so you can see where each style stands.
Questions
How many samples will I need before production?
It depends on the style and how complete your tech pack is. Many new styles need two to three rounds before the pre-production sample. Clear, measured comments and quick approvals keep the number down.
Can I skip the size set?
For a small first order with a simple style and a tested block, some brands go from fit sample to pre-production. For fitted styles or a wide size range, a size set is worth it because grading problems in bulk are expensive.
Is the photo sample the same as the pre-production sample?
Not always. Photo samples are often made early for marketing, sometimes before bulk fabric or trims are ready. The pre-production sample is the one made with bulk materials and used as the reference for production.
When does the 45-day production clock start?
From sample approval. Sampling happens before that and its length depends on the style and how fast approvals come back.
What if bulk does not match the approved sample?
That is what the TOP sample and pre-packing checks are for. Sourcingo's team checks finished goods against the approved sample before packing.
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